During my visit to Pula, Croatia, I stopped to take a closer look at this remarkable Roman amphitheatre. From the outside, its curved rows of arches are impressive enough. But what makes the Arena fascinating is not only how it was built—it is everything that happened to it afterwards.
Construction began during the reign of Emperor Augustus in the 1st century AD. The building was expanded over time, eventually taking on its monumental form during the Flavian dynasty, under Emperor Vespasian. It was built from local limestone, just outside the town walls, partly because a structure of this size needed so much space.
The Romans called the central sandy area the arena. Around it, spectators gathered to watch gladiatorial contests, animal hunts and other public events. The seating was carefully organised, reflecting the social order of the time. The building’s underground spaces were used to hold animals and equipment before they appeared in the arena.
We know the names of many Roman emperors, but the architect who designed Pula Arena is unknown. No architect’s name has survived in the historical record. That leaves us with a building whose makers remain anonymous, even though their work has endured for nearly two thousand years.
The Arena’s story could have ended very differently. As its use declined, parts of the interior were taken away and reused in other buildings around Pula. In the 13th century, people removing stone were threatened with a heavy fine. The city council later introduced its own ban on taking material from ancient monuments.
Then, in 1583, the Arena faced a more dramatic threat: the Venetian Republic considered dismantling its outer wall stone by stone and transporting it to Venice. Senator Gabriele Emo opposed the plan. A plaque on the building still records the gratitude of the people of Pula for his role in saving the monument.
Over the centuries, the Arena was used for fairs and other events. Archaeological research and restoration work helped preserve it, and today it remains part of everyday cultural life in Pula. Concerts, performances and film events take place within its ancient walls.
Standing beside it, I found myself thinking about the people who planned, shaped and built it—and how close it came to being dismantled. The Arena is a reminder that buildings can carry more than stone and structure: they can hold the story of a city, and of the people who chose to protect them.
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